Manufacture op shoes



p 1940. J. s. KAMBORIAN 2, 4,

MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Filed April 4, 1938 2 Sheets-Sheet 1 9 1940- J. 5. KAMBORIAN 2,214,791

MANUFACTURE OF SHOE S Filed April 4, 1938 2 3heets-$heet 2 Maw/ma Patented Sept. 17, 1940 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MANUFACTURE OF SHOES Application April 4, 1938, Serial No. 199,880

1 Claim.

This invention relates to improvements in methods of making single sole shoes.

One object oi the invention is to provide a simple and practical method of making single 5 sole shoes the practice of which will result in the eiiecting of substantial economies in manuiacturing costs as compared with methods heretofore practiced and which will produce an attractive, neatly finished and well fitting shoe.

With tnis object in view the invention, in one aspect, resides in the improvement in shoemaking hereinafter described and. claimed which, as herein illustrated, comprises providing a rounded sole having an upturned marginal channel flap at its attaching side, providing a strap upper assembly in which the straps are accurately proportioned for size and width of sole attaching margin without surplus, positioning the upper assembly right-side out in assembled relation to 80 the sole, while the parts are unsupported on a last, securing the margins 01' the straps to the upturned channel flap, thereafter introducing a last within the shoe thereby shaping the upper assembly and laying down the flap, and permanently securing the body portion of the sole to the straps. As herein disclosed the upper assembly is secured to the upturned channel flap by means of a line of stitching after having first been temporarily secured to the flap by means of cement. The upper asembly may be proportioned as above described by cutting it in accordance with a properly drafted pattern, the upper thus formed having no surplus attaching margin to be subsequently trimmed off and wasted. Thus, a substantial saving of upper material is efiected. In accordance with this method, nureover, the usual operation of lasting the upper is eliminated inasmuch as the upper is unsupported by a last while it is being assembled 4D with and secured to a sole.

This method is particularly advantageous in the manufacture of sandals in which the upper comprises a plurality of straps each of which is cut to a predetermined length to provide for 45 accurately fitting the foot and for attachment or their end portions to a sole without having any surplus material at the ends oi the straps to be subsequently removed. In the manufacture of sandals, in accordance with my invention, the

59 straps while unsupported by a last are successively placed in the proper positions with respect to the upturned lip of the tread sole and preferably, though not necessarily, they are temporarily secured to the latter by means of cement,

55 after which they are permanently secured to the flap by stitches. Thereafter a last is inserted in the shoe thereby shaping the straps to the contour oi the foot and leveling the upturned channel lip by displacing it into a plane substantially parallel to that of the suriace oi the 5 sole. Sole attaching cement is then applied in position to secure the lip with its attached strap portions to the marginal body portion of the sole and the latter is pressed toward the last bottom as by means of a presser pad in a sole attaching machine and the pressure is maintained until a satisfactory bond has been established to eflect permanent attachment of the straps to the 5016. As shown, the outer margin oi the channel lip may be notched or otherwise marked before the straps are assembled with the sole to indicate the proper locations for the straps. I! notches are formed in the channel lip the straps will lie in the notches after the lip has been displaced into the plane of the sole by the insertion of the a last. As shown, the sole may be channeled so as to provide a marginal shoulder in the body portion of the sole in which case the notches will cooperate with the shoulder to provide closed slots through which the straps will extend therea by simulating the appearance of a sandal having an insole which is slotted to receive the straps and permit their end portions to be anchored between an insole and an outsole.

The invention will be described with reference a to the accompanying drawings, which form a part of the specification.

Referring to the drawings,

Fig. l is a plan view of a tread sole as it appears after having been rounded and channeled and after notches have been formed in the channel lip;

Fig. 2 is a detailed view, partially in section on the line 11-11 of Fig. 1 and partially in perspective, illustrating the appearance of the notched channel lip and the shouldered marginal portion of the sole;

Fig. 3 is a perspective view of the sole as it appears after the channel lip has been raised into an upstanding position preparatory to hav- 45 ing an upper assembled therewith;

Fig. 4 is a perspective view of a strap upper assembly of the forepart of the sandal;

Fig. 5 is a fragmentary elevational view of means which may be employed for beveling the attaching ends of the sandal straps;

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view oi the iorepart of a sandal in course of construction;

Fig. 7 is a side elevational view of the sandal;

Fig. 8 is a cross-sectional view 01' the foi'epart of the sandal after a last has been inserted therein and the sandal has been placed in a sole attaching press;

Fig. 9 is a view, partially in plan and partially in section. of a portion of a completed sandal;

Fig. 10 is a fragmentary perspective view of the sandal; and

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary view oi the sandal in longitudinal section.

In making a single sole sandal in accordance with my invention, as illustrated in Figs. 1 to 11, inclusive, a tread sole 2! is channeled at its upper or attaching side to provide a'continuous outer marginal channel 22 forming a channel lip 24 and a marginal body portion 2'. Either before or after the sole is channeled a series of U-shaped cuts ll (Fig. 1) are made by dies or otherwise in the forward portion of the flesh side of the sole, the cuts extending downwardly a distance at least equal to the thickness of the channel lip which has been or is to be formed and being so located as to cooperate with the channel cut to provide shallow notches 38 in the outer edge portion of the lip I4, the notches serving to locate the end portions of the sandal straps in the desired spaced relation along the margin of the sole during the assembling of the straps with the sole and the straps extending through the notches in the finished sandal, as will be hereinafter described. Preparatory to the assembly for the straps with the sole the channel lip 24 is raised into an upstanding position substantially perpendicular to the surface of the sole, as indicated in Fig. 3.

As shown. the upper of the sandal may comprise a strap forepart assembly I2 (Fig. 4) and a quarter or heel part I (Fig. 7). As herein exemplified. the strap assembly I! comprises a plurality of cross-straps 8| which may be secured together by stitching or otherwise. In cutting the straps 32 the length of each strap is made such that after the end portions of the strap have been secured to the sole the strap will be of exactly the desired length'to fit the foot and there will be no surplus material, corresponding to the usual surplus lasting allowance. at the ends of the straps to be subsequently trimmed oil. In other words, the strap upper assembly is accurately proportioned for width of sole attaching margin without surplus. The quarter II is also accurately proportioned for size and the width of its sole attaching margin is predetermined so that no surplus will be provided.

Before assembly of the forepart straps with the sole the free end portions of the straps are advantageously prepared for cement attachment to the sole by being thinned and roughened, as for example by being introduced individually a short distance between cooperating abrasive wheels, such as the wheels I and 3! shown in Fig. 5, the wheels being driven in the direction indicated by the arrows in that fi ure. After each strap has been thus treated it is retracted from between the rolls, the end portion of the straphavingbeenthusbeveledortaperedupon both sides throughout the extent of the portion which is to be attached to the sole. The attachingmarginofthequartermhyalsobebeveled or roughened by suitable means to facilitate its attachment by cement to the sole.

In assembling and initially securing together the upper members and the sole no last is employed, the parts merely being relatively pod- I tioned by hand, as indicated in Figs. 6 and 7,

and the individual straps of the forepart assembly 32 being located successively in registration with the notches in the upstanding lip 24 and overlapping the lip throughout or substantially throughout the width of the latter. The base or innermost side of the channel is thereby used as a gage to determine the girth measurement of the upper, above the sole. The straps are attached to the lip 24 by any suitable fastening means such as cement, stitches or staples. Preferably as the straps are successively positioned with respect to the lip 24 they are secured to the lip by cement, for example latex, as indicated at M, the cement holding the straps temporarily in place, and thereafter they are permanently secured to the lip by means of a single line of stitching l2 which extends conthe sole and is secured to the lip as by a line of 2 stitching l6 (Fig. '1).

After the iorepart strap assembly 32 and the quarter 34 have been stitched to the lip II a last ill is inserted within the shoe. The forepart upper assembly and the last are relatively so shaped that the distances across the side and upper surfaces of the last from the bottom edge at one side to the bottom edge at the opposite side in any selected locality correspond to the distance measured along the inside surface of the upper straps from the top edge of the upturned lip at one side to the corresponding point at the other side of the insole. Consequently, when the last is thrust into the forepart upper assembly the upturned lips 24 together with the portions of the straps which are attached thereto will be displaced outwardly or leveled so as to close the channel 22 and cause the end portions of the straps to lie against the marginal body portion 26 of the sole and to cause the straps to conform closely to the last, as indicated in Fig. 8. Similarly, in the heel part of the sandal, the lip 24 is displaced outwardly toward the marginal body portion of the sole and the quarter is conformed to the sides of the last.

Cement is now applied to the channeled surface at the upper side of'the marginal body portion 26 of the sole and to the exposed attaching marginsofthestrapsaswellastothoseportions of the lip II which are located. between the straps. If necessary, the margin of the body portion of the sole may be raised or bent away from the last somewhat to facilitate the application of the cement and advantageously the cement may be extruded from a nozzle or applied by means of a spray gun.

The lasted shoe, having been prepared as above described, is then placed in a suitable press, such as a sole attaching press. between upper and lower presser members l2 and i l of which the member 54, which is adapted to engage the sole of the shoe throughout the entire area of its tread surface. is composed of rubber or other suitable yielding material adapted to conform readily to the contour of the bottom of the sole. As a result of the pressure applied by the pad 54 the sole to will be pressed against the last bottom so that the ends of the straps will be tightly compressed between the lip ll and the margin of the body portion of the sole and the pressure will be maintained until the cement has set and a permanent bond has been obtained between the straps and the sole.

To complete the sandal a shank stiil'ener 58 may be applied to the upper side of the sole 20 and covered, if desired, by a shank piece ill 01 fiber or the like, a heel 62 is attached as by means 01' nails 64 driven from the inside of the shoe and a sock lining 68 is cemented in place so as to cover the inside of the shoe bottom.

In the sole of the illustrated sandal it will be noted that the channel 22 is cut inwardly from the flesh side of the sole, the cut being L-shaped in cross-section and arranged to form a shoulder II) in the marginal portion 26 o! the sole (Figs. 2 and 10). It will also be noted that in the finished shoe the edges of the notches I0 cooperate with the adjacent portions or the shoulder III to provide in effect a series of closed slots through which the straps extend. This notched formation of the channel lip, together with the tapered or beveled formation of the ends of the straps. insures that the channel lip, after being cemented to the body of the sole, will lie smoothly in place without providing any objectionable ridged tormations where the straps extend beneath it.-

F'urthermore, as a result or this construction, the appearance of the sandal is suggestive 01 that o! a. sandal having an insole provided with marginal slots through which the ends of the straps extend.

In making a sandal in accordance with my improved method, the straps oi the upper are cut accurately to size, no surplus lasting allowance being provided. This results in a substantial saving of upper materials since none 01' the material is trimmed oil and wasted. The method enables the upper to be assembled with and secured to the sole while unsupported by a last, thus eliminating the usual lasting operation.

The invention having been described, what I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent oi the United States is:

That improvement in methods of making strap sandals which consists in providing an upper comprising a plurality oi straps each cut to a predetermined length without surplus attaching allowance at either end, roughening and tapering the ends of said straps at both sides, providing a rounded sole having at its attaching side an upturned channel lip provided with a plurality of notches spaced lengthwise of the sole edge, positioning said upper right-side out in assembled relation to said sole with the end portions of said straps overlapping said lip and extending a predetermined distance into said channel and located in registry with said notches, securing the end portions of said straps to said lip. inserting a last within the shoe thereby shaping said straps to ioot coniorming contour and leveling said lip so that said straps are received within said notches, applying cement in position to secure said lip together with the attached strap portions to the body portion 01 said sole, and pressing said body portion toward the last bot-. tom thereby causing said cement permanently to secure said straps to said sole.

JACOB B. KAMIBORIAN. 

